NEW FASHION IDEAS FROM THE PRE-AUTUMN 2022 COLLECTIONS
This pre-Autumn
season is the smallest we’ve covered on Vogue Runway in nearly a decade, with
around 100 women’s and men’s collections in total. In the past, our pre-fall
coverage has taken our critics around the globe. With Omicron spiking this
year, some brands are trying to make the best of a difficult situation; others
are on taking the season off. The independent Milan designer said, “sometimes
to carry on with reckless stubbornness is not as smart, wise, or brave as to
pause and think.”
Even in the
best of times, pre-fall or Autumn collection has traditionally been a stop-gap
season, one that’s more about selling than new ideas. But after two years of the
pandemic, even the idea of selling clothing has become abstract. At this point,
what do shoppers want or even need? The suggestions here revolve around the
notion of useful, simple beauty. Warm textures, sunshine colours, and lots of
sexy, essential black clothing are the season’s major storylines, with a bit of
kitsch and fun coming in via the continued Y2K revival—now for the boys!—and a
renewed interest in deconstructed denim and strange layering.
If the past
is anything to go on, these clothes will become the backbone of our springtime
and summertime wardrobes, accented by the sure to be big, crazy, and eccentric
ideas on the fall 2022 catwalks next month.
Demented Denim
The denim
revival is going strong this season, with brands like Diesel, Balenciaga, and
R13 blowing up jeans to new proportions. Others, like Louis Vuitton menswear
and MM6 Maison Margiela are rethinking denim completely, using trompe l’oeil
techniques to evoke the structure of denim on cozier fabrics.
Add Puff and Fluff
Fuzzy and
fluffy textures are big news for pre-fall. Jil Sander and Proenza Schouler are
incorporating them into trousers and slip dresses, while Christopher John
Rogers and Gucci produced show-stopping dresses and coats that puff out beyond
three dimensions.
Taste the Rainbow
Colour
theorists have proven that a bright outfit can actually brighten your mood.
While you can always count on Moschino and Christopher John Rogers to bring the
colour, Tory Burch is getting in on the act too with a sunny madras that can
elevate your vibes to a new high.
A Touch of Tweed
The
two-piece suits we’ve seen of late have been replaced by great tweed jackets
paired with loose skirts or leather trousers for pre-fall. Think of it as the working
woman’s alternative to a hoodie—cozy as a knit but polished enough for a trip
to Paris.
A Knotty Look for Zoom
or Parties
Portrait
necklaces and collarbone detailing were trending in 2020—any detail visible on
a Zoom call was essential. Now, designers like Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen at
The Row and Maria Cornejo are finding twisted new ways to bring volume and
elegance into a video call frame (and real life!) with knotted and draped
silhouettes.
Trust in Plaid
Some things
are certain: death, taxes, and the eternal appeal of plaid. The pre-fall
collections offer a bevy of punk, prep, and polished plaid prints from Dior,
Roberto Cavalli, and Jil Sander that can be worn countless different ways.
And Just Like That…A
Retro Ball Skirt Is Back
It might be
hard to imagine black tie events coming back—especially with the Grammy Awards
just put on indefinite pause—but whenever the red carpet is rolled out again,
expect to see full-skirted silhouettes that evoke ’50s glamour like these
numbers from Erdem, Prabal Gurung, and Oscar de la Renta.
Miniskirts and Shorts
Still Rule
The short
skirts of the Autumn collection 2022 runways aren’t going away any
time soon–instead, they will be joined in stores by mini shorts and minidresses
from Dior, Givenchy, Gucci, and Etro.
A Different Kind of Book
Bag
Another
surprise from the pre-fall season is the return of the book bag—not a backpack
but a bag designed specifically for transporting printed matter. At Balmain,
Olivier Rousteing dared to ask media’s most feared question—“Do you still buy
magazines?”—on a zine-shaped tote, while Kim Jones created old-fashioned
leather book belts at Dior Men. Time to ditch the Kindle and support your local
bookstore or magazine shop.
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